Albania recently built a freeway from the coast to Kosovo. However, unless you have a very good road map or speak Albanian, it can be hard to find the freeway. Like most Balkan countries, Albania likes to put the next town on road signs, rather than the general direction of the road, or whether there are any large cities or important junctions coming up. The result? Unless you have a good map, you ain't finding the freeway, and asking the man with the pig in the back of his cart isn't going to help (I tried.) But though we didn't mean to take the five hour drive through the back and beyond of Albania, it was well worth it. The road is deserted and twisty, the scenery is amazing, and there are many interesting overgrown communist monuments along the way, including bunkers built by Albania's crazy ex-dictator to repel invasion from Italy.