Farrer Park is a neighborhood in transition at the northern end of Little India. Trendy cafes have popped up across from a famous bak kut teh (pork rib soup) shop, and older housing estates are now sharing space with newer condominium developments. One thing that hasn't changed is the neighborhood hawker center, Pek Kio. In the morning, kopi (local coffee) and soup shops do a swift business, and in the evenings, lines form in front of carrot cake (radish omelette) and wonton mee (wonton noodles) stalls. In the afternoons, when only a few stalls are open, it's a tranquil scene. Retired uncles sit with their newspapers and kopi, shooting the breeze under the whir of electric fans.