I arrived in Amorgos by ferry around 3 in the night. A couple of cabs were waiting in Katapola to pick up the families who came back from Athens with plastic bags full with Feta and canisters of olive oil (or raki?). Since it was the middle of the night I decided to catch a few hours of sleep before sunrise at the nearby beach. Around six in the morning the first families appeared in the harbor for the early ferry to Piraeus. This was my chance to flag a cab to take me across the mountain to Chosoviotissa at the east coast. The friendly driver drove me all the way to the monastery and offered to wait for me. I declined, since I wanted to hike up the mountain and back to Chora, the island's main town myself. I had planned this moment - sunrise at Amorgos - for weeks. I even brought a bottle of red wine from Athens to make it perfect. But I wasn't prepared for a sunrise like this. I arrived at the monastery approximately 45 minutes before sunrise. The first streaks of red already appeared on the far horizon. The silence was absolute. I unfolded my camping mat in front of the monastery yard, uncorked the sweet Mavrodaphne from Patras (barbaric, I know...) and waited. The sky became more and more red by the minute, and then slowly, just slowly, rising out of the water, at first as a small dot of light, but soon like an enormous torch lighting up the Aegean horizon, the sun ascended from the water. It was just magical, I never saw a sunrise like this, not even at Thira. Perfect.