International celebrity chef, best-selling cookbook author, and "Guardian" columnist Yotam Ottolenghi has parlayed his innovative, boldly flavored, Asian-accented Middle Eastern cuisine into a London empire of deli-restaurants--in Nottinghill, Islington, Belgravia, and Spitalfields (where we lunched)--plus his acclaimed formal/casual, upstairs/downstairs restaurant, Nopi, in Soho. The Israeli-Italian-German culinary star is a wizard with vegetables (documented in his vegetarian cookbook "Plenty") but eats, cooks, and serves meat and fish as well. At Spitalfields, we cobbled together our fantastic meal from the choices of salads and main courses. I went vegetarian: roasted cauliflower with black garlic, yoghurt, almonds, fennel seeds, and radicchio; grilled mixed peppers and Palestinian couscous with jalapeno oil and rocket; and pea and mint, lime and feta arancini with preserved lemon and herb yoghurt. Yes, you DO go to England now for the food!