A modern, elegant setting belies the classic food, much of it of humble origins, on offer at Porta di Po. Chef Giorgio Marone's love of cooking shines through in every dish, and with the exuberant encouragement of owner Antonio, this is an ideal place to sample Piedmontese foods you may not have tried before: sauceless agnolotti al plin (napkin tortellini), hand-chopped raw beef with Rivalba truffle, tajarin (Piedmontese tagliatelle) with Bra sausage. My "salad" of rabbit was as artfully presented as it was delicious.
Porta di Po ticks all the boxes: excellent local food and wine, friendly staff, and good value. The location is superb, too--in summer, tables are set under umbrellas at the edge of Piazza Vittorio, facing the Gran Madre church.