It takes about 3 hours to cross from Komani, a concrete pier with a restaurant, to Fierza, at the other hand of the manmade lake. The few ferries that cross the lake are old, rusted, and serve as local transport for everything from motorcycles (pictured here being loaded) to generators to market produce. The mountains are spectacular and the waters smooth as mirrors. Unfortunately the habit of throwing litter overboard has yet to be kicked.
Buses leave Tirana around 05:45 but getting to Komani from Shkoder is shorter. Your hotel or guest house will call for you. The road to the ferry is one of the few roads that hasn't be repaved yet so the curves are nasty, gravelly and incredibly beautiful. A superb journey and the gateway to Northern Albania.
I carried my own inflatable life jacket - but then I can't swim. The ferry broke down at one point and drifted into the mountain wall: we gently pushed it back while the mechanic tinkered with the spewing motor.
The 'rustbuckets' run each morning, around 8am but do call first because they're notoriously unreliable.
This was one of the highlights of my visit to Albania.