We disembark the train at its final stop, Helsingør, home of Kronborg Castle, the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet.
Our impeccably-dressed guide regales us with tales of Denmark royalty. The queens, attempting to maintain the 16 centimeter diameter waist standard set by Catherine of Medici, would regurgitate into pails held by their servants during meals; in fact, the act was considered to be a status symbol. The ginormous kings, less concerned about their figures, routinely consumed five liters of wine or beer with their meals. Most of them died an early death, our guide informs us, from liver disease.