Among the many ruinpubs, tourist restaurants, and food trucks, I stumbled across Koleves.
Large, open with a charming/quirky decor, it was just what I was looking for - traditional, fresh accessible food.
It was filled with locals and busy for a Monday night! Apparently they have a garden too but I only visited in winter.
A perfect spot for a chill dinner before hitting the pubs. But don't worry - plenty of booze here. Everyone had a huge stein (I had the local wine)