Julian Serrano, Las Vegas
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Tuna Tempura with a Spanish flair: new-style tapas in the Aria
Fusion cuisine doesn't work all of the time, but when it does, it cries out to be savored. At Julian Serrano, on the ground floor of the Aria hotel, the tried-and-true Spanish plates are eminently tasty, but explore the "new style tapas" section of the menu as well. One of the plates we ordered was the ahi tuna tempura: served on a bed of seaweed salad and avocado-rocoto-mayo along with ponzu sauce, garnished with slices of fried garlic. This dish would seem to be equally at home in the Ginza or Granada...appropriate enough in Las Vegas, where geography is incidental, but flavors matter. Named by Esquire magazine as one of the nation's best restaurants in recent years, this is a hotel-lobby-eatery worth checking out.
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