Rumor has it French cuisine is heavy, fortunately, that is just a rumor. The delicious, savory crêpes, called galettes, at Ty Breiz dispel the folly at first bite and Le Soufflé serves the eponymic dish that is light as air. Classic Parisian bistrots welcome diners with names that evoke home: Joséphine, Chez Dumont, Chez René, Chez Georges, and Chez Marie Louise. Their polished staff and tables reserved for regulars are the first sign that this is old school cooking. Classic dishes like boeuf bourguignon, confit de canard and calf kidney (ris de veau) are so good you’ll wonder why they invented nouvelle cuisine. Le Dôme serves the traditional Parisian seafood platter from a dining room that has hardly changed since Hemingway was there.