New York Times critic pick
25 Clinton Street (Stanton Street), Lower East Side; 646-678-3859; ivanramen.com
ATMOSPHERE Lively but relaxed, with more elbow room at the counter and the tables than you might expect.
SERVICE Often excellent, without making a big deal out of it.
SOUND LEVEL Jarring at peak hours.
RECOMMENDED Pickled daikon XO; Chinese broccoli and garlic; pork meatballs; JFC; Tofu Coney Island; roast pork musubi; triple pork triple garlic mazemen; vegetarian shoyu ramen; spicy red chile ramen.
DRINKS AND WINE The sake and beer list is smart and affordable. For nondrinkers, iced barley tea with yuzu lemonade (the Ivan Palmer) beckons.
PRICES Ramen, $13 to $15 (egg and roasted tomato are an extra $2 each); other dishes, $3.50 to $14.
OPEN Daily for lunch and dinner.
RESERVATIONS Not accepted.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Dining room and accessible restroom are reached by a portable ramp from the sidewalk.
Email: email@example.com. And follow Pete Wells on Twitter: @pete_wells.