The big cats had been elusive for the entire two week trip. It should have occurred to me that they're cats and they spend 18 hours a day sleeping in the tall grass. It was the very last game drive of the journey. We had been bumping around in the Land Rovers for hours, seeing pretty much every animal but the lions. Suddenly, the trackers got excited. There were signs that the lions were close. My initial excitement turned to fear as we grew closer. The Rovers had open doors and there was not much space between me and the tall grass which concealed the lions. The trackers pointed out whole carcasses in the grass, entire rib cages and spinal columns stripped of every last morsel of tissue. The lions were nearby. I finally spotted them, feeding on a freshly killed springbok. The males were feeding first and the females and cubs waited patiently to eat. When one of the males roared you could feel it resonate in the pit of your stomach. It was at once terrifying and exhilarating.