From the south side of the Dubai Khor, where the creek meets the Arabian Sea, hop on a chugging abra (water taxi) for an evocative ride past the creaking dhow shipyard in Diera. There awaits the Gold Souq - a warren of shady walkways and glittering window displays. The intricate handiwork on the gold is free. Payment is strictly by the gram and market demand. Follow the heady aroma of frankincense, myrrh and buhoor to the nearby Spice Souq. Pick up a do it yourself henna kit or a hookah from among the jute sacks piled high with all the spices of the orient. Just bring all your tricks to the bargaining table because the merchants there do it for a living, not for fun.