Lady Eugenie, heeling precariously, smashes through gigantic waves at 33-knots. It’s a four-hour sail from Great Oyster Bay to the safety of Triabunna as we out-run a cold front bearing down on Tasmania’s east coast.
The full moon illuminates every white cap for miles across the eerie ocean. Jaw-dropping summits of the Freycinet Peninsula, site of today’s hike, have all but vanished in the night. We’re a ghost ship on speed.
Bravely sitting on deck, I survey the scene in complete exhilaration (albeit comfortably numb thanks to pain-killers (for my aching blistered feet), Travel Calm (for seasickness) and a couple of local chardonnays (for patriotism)).
Later, as I fall into my bunk, the 23-metre ketch hits another massive curl and lurches me back onto the floor.