For slice-of-life Seoul, take a walk from Jongno 3-ga Subway station up to the main gate of Changdeok-gung Palace. Re-built in 1607, (and somehow surviving the Korean War of the 1950's), Donhwa-mun gate is one of the oldest wooden structures left in Seoul. Its namesake street is lined with neighborhood hardware stores and tailors' boutiques.
"Hanbok" (traditional Korean clothing) designers have begun incorporating "Hangeul," the Korean phonetic script, into their offerings. Embroidered fonts on the silk neckties vary from calligraphic to abstract... Do some window-shopping as you stroll north toward the Palace.
Lines 1,3,5, exit Jongno-3ga station, head north on Donhwamun-ro (street)