Naples was my favorite city among those that I visited in Italy. The people are warm and gracious, and the bit of dirt and grit that repels some tourists gave the city an edge that I absolutely loved. English is not as widely spoken in Naples, which also adds to the experience. I highly recommend Da Marino on Via Santa Lucia -- best pizza of my life and the greatest service and hospitality. We went two nights in a row, and on the second night, the owner recognized us and seated us before others waiting. Our basic Italian wasn't quite enough to understand him, but he seemed to want to return the favor of our return visit.