Coi: Fine Dining Just off the North Beach Tourist Track
Chef Daniel Patterson is a quiet storm. You might see him at the Ferry Building Farmers' Market on Saturday mornings (as I have), obsessing over the perfectly perfect cherries at Hamada Farms. He's always got a million things going on—he has four restaurants in the Bay Area, writes for the New York Times Magazine, and makes time to forage for things like seaweed to serve his guests. Coi is Patterson's passion project. It's where he can stretch—and patrons will appreciate his boundary-pushing. His tasting menu ($195) changes daily, and will feature items like a steamed black trumpet-sunchoke dumpling with braised lettuce, brown butter, and mushroom dashi (shown). Patterson is a magician with vegetables: His dishes would never fall into the typical pit of pork chop plus grain plus vegetable. At Coi, expect to taste surprising flavor combinations, to see beautiful platings, and to enjoy yourself immensely.