Getting to Vietnam's most famous pilgrimage site is an adventure in itself. From Hanoi, it is a 60km journey to the edge of the Red River Delta where limestone karsts start to rise from the paddies. An hour's ride in a row-boat up a flooded valley will take you to the bottom of a steep hill. From there it is a further hour's climb to reach Chua Huong (Perfume Pagoda) itself. The pagoda itself occupies a spectacular grotto around 50m high. It is worth the effort, but -- be warned -- this is a popular attraction.