With the precipitous rise of gourmet street food and market-fresh neo-bistrots, it's not surprising that Boris Leclercq's eponymous steak joint 'Chez Boris' opened near the Champs-Elysées last year with little fanfare. The conceit of this steakhouse, however, deserves attention particularly for its unique, revivalist approach to steak-frites dining.
Boris and his wife Leticia raise grass-fed Aubrac cows on their own farm in the Hérault region, follow a 21-day maturation process in a cold chamber within their own cutting plant (where they employ 2 dedicated butchers), and serve both traditionally superior cuts (filet, sirloin, etc.) and those most often neglected or typically reserved for tartares or hamburgers (flank or spider), accentuating their flavor as a result of their maturation technique and grilling process. What's more, they won't begin preparing cuts from another cow until those from the previous one have been entirely used and served.
Each steak is served with a simple green salad and crispy fries cooked in beef fat, not in oil. This 'home made' from farm to plate approach is, effectively, all in an effort to control the provenance of the meat they serve and ensure quality at all times - crucial as the horse-meat controversy and trend in French restaurants toward using industrial ingredients had the public hyper-aware and concerned about what they're consuming.
Delicious and sustainable - more than enough reason to book lunch or dinner at Chez Boris.