Tourists have flocked to Chandni Chowk since the 1700s. But the time to go to this market part of town is not when the stores are open, but rather when they are closed. In spite of all logic, it's true.
When the shops are closed, that's when you see what it's really like to live here, The street dogs curl up here and there for a nap, the men wait in line for a bus to arrive, twenty deep, sometimes more, the devout Muslims and Sikhs go to their places of worship or sit outside waiting for something to begin that only they understand. A few women, not too many, but a few, wander into one of the few open shops, usually the ones selling flour or fruit, not the tourist items that will sell like hotcakes in a few hours.
Chandni Chowk is a hectic, wild place when the shops open for the daily trade, but before they open and after, that's when you see what life here is really like.