It may be on all the tourist lists, but one of our most memorable lunches in Vietnam was at Cha Ca La Vong. After winding your way through old Hanoi and up the stairs to this 100-year-old restaurant, you are seated at a communal table. No menu necessary, they only serve one dish, the fabulaous Cha ca la Vong. It is fish cooked over a charcoal brazier with spices and served with greens and condiments. It was nine years ago, and we still remember the experience like it was yesterday. These ladies were in the downstairs of the restaurant preparing the greens. Earlier we saw them sharpening their knives on the well worn doorway.