Van Kleef is an unassuming dive bar with massive instruments and vintage collectibles hanging from the ceiling to the ground. They also have some kind of pull with the grapefruit growers of America, because their grapefruits— cut in quarters and placed as oversized garnishes on freshly squeezed greyhounds— are remarkably never bitter. There are a bunch of new bars nearby, but the cocktails cost $11 and I don’t know what half the ingredients are on their menus. Stay here, where things are unexpectedly sweet. ($5 cover on weekends).