When famed chef Daniel Boulud first set up camp in T.O., there was was plenty of excitement swirling around his Canuck debut. Café Boulud, housed in the swishy new Four Seasons, was destined to attract the city’s finest. Thing is, it didn’t quite pan out for Boulud. The environs were questionable and the food a touch underwhelming — especially coming from a Michelin-starred chef. Fortunately, the place recently got a complete do-over and has gracefully shrugged off the past.
To start, Café Boulud is now playing the part of a proper French brasserie, resulting in a space you wouldn’t mind lingering in. Gone are the board-like chairs and the out-of-place artwork, having been replaced with comfy leather seats and handsome brass light fixtures. The menu sticks mainly to French faves, with bites including saucisson sec avec baguette, a salade niçoise and confit de canard. But the on-trend rotisserie chicken has been getting the most ink. Done in the imported Rotisol oven, the poulet à la broche emerges perfectly done, the centre juicy and skin crisp, and is paired with roti potatoes and watercress salad. Bravo.