Built between 1875 and 1884, the neo-Renaissance Opera House is worth a visit for the architecture alone. Purchase a box seat in one of the gilded balconies for a closer view of the baroque chandeliers. For a more raucous experience, head three blocks down to Giero. In this cellar bar, listen to several generations of men play passionate Hungarian Gypsy tunes on their violins and cimbaloms (Hungarian dulcimers) while women prepare and serve home-style dishes such as pörkölt, a paprika-laced stew.
This appeared in the July/August 2011 issue.