Visiting the newly reopened top level of Borobudur at sunrise is worth everything it takes to get there. I imagine people who scale a mountain feel much the same, and symbolically, the summit of this 8th century Buddhist shrine is the mountaintop. Did we spend an hour? 40 minutes? I really don't remember; I barely remember scaling seven levels by flashlight to get there and greet the dawn. I do remember the stillness, and the volcano on the horizon, and the Merapi Hills rising in the mist, and the realization that I was doing all of this in a primarily Muslim country.