Black River
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Stuffed crab at Sister Lou's in Jamaica

In Jamaica, my husband Mike, my friend Stephanie, and I hired a small boat to take us up the Black River, a long river made dark from the tannins of decaying leaves. Small crocodiles laid still and Zen-like along the river's banks. Waterlogged trees crouched over narrow channels, making it feel like we were the only people to have ever ventured up the river. A few miles in, past where the large tourist boats turn around, we came across Sister Lou's River Stop, famous for its crab. We got off the boat, went inside the dark building, and ordered two plates of crab and some Red Stripe beers at the small counter. The crab was served stuffed in the shells, belly-up, on paper plates. It was warm, spicy, and delicious. While we ate and drank, I asked our boatman about some of the local lingo and learned "Wagwan" is the way to say "Hello! What's up?" When a man came by Lou's on his bike,  I called out, "Wagwan!" and he burst out laughing. Our guide, laughing himself, explained he wasn't used to hearing a tourist speak like a local.

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