There’s nothing particularly fancy about Appia. The prices are very reasonable and the menu at the classic trattoria-style venue just about fills one side of A4 paper. What makes it special is the provenance of the ingredients and the evident passion that fuels chef Paolo Vitaletti’s Roman-style cuisine. The house-made pasta dishes sing with Italian authenticity. Also special, meanwhile, is the venue’s porchetta – pork stuffed with fennel pollen, garlic and rosemary, which is roasted behind the bar.