San Carlos is a tiny, former hippie town and you can drive in and out of it in the time it takes to say "Peace out, man". But as you take the hairy blind corner in the centre of town, you'll notice some tables and chairs set out on the pavement. Pull over - carefully! - find somewhere to park, and join the locals at Anita's Bar, whose small courtyard and even smaller interior can accommodate a surprising amount of custom. There's a lovely laidback vibe, good Spanish lager on tap, and, for the brave, home-made hierbas, a herbal liqueur unique to the island. My sister and I sat up at the bar and got broad smiles from the staff when we used our meagre Spanish; the dishes that wafted past us looked hearty and smelled delicious. We were sad that we only had time to stop for one drink - next time, we'll stay for the evening.