I was hungry and wanted to see the sunset. As a solo traveler, getting to do both -- eat well at a table with a view -- was tough. They wanted to save the best for duos. So after being given a lame table at a chic-chic (read: super expensive) spot near the breakwater, I raced against the setting sun back up the trail toward Corniglia where I remembered seeing a lovely restaurant overlooking the sea. Upon arriving all sweaty and gross, I got the table -- and the good eats. These were by far the best mussels I've ever eaten: stuffed with bread crumbs, mortadella cheese, herbs and, of course, mussel meat. Bellisima!