Small-town dining often means managing your expectations and developing a high tolerance for burgers and omelets. But I was impressed and delighted by brunch at the Adrift Restaurant in Anacortes, WA. The nautical theme extends to copper-covered tables, a large display of knots on the wall, and model ships perched on bookshelves (the vintage books are for sale, $5 each, so feel free to browse as you eat). The Dungeness crab scramble ($16) is a must-try, as is the homemade raspberry jam thickly spread on a piping-hot biscuit. The service is friendly, the portions are generous, and the meals are darn tasty.