Accordini Stefano
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An Ultra-Personalized Wine Tasting
Twenty minutes from the center of Verona lies its mountainous wine region, Valpolicella, "Valley of the Many Cellars." It's known, above all, for its Amarone. Amarone is a ruby wine, typically of full, velvety mouthfeel, that uses three times as many grapes as most other wines. After making a reservation at Accordini Stefano's, we looked up the address on Google Map and showed up—at a house. Not what we expected, but we rang the bell. An old Italian lady came down and asked what we needed. Turns out we were at their old winery and it would take another hour to get to the villa and vineyards. Feeling sorry for us, she brought us inside for a tasting. The lady, whose husband's dad had started the winery, spent most of her life working in the vines. She and her husband left the business to their sons and their wives, but she was happy to give us a tour of where they stored the wine, show us hundreds of photos, and chat with us for an hour about the business and her own life. They age their wines in barrels made of both Slovanian and French panels, and fuse flavors such as truffle, tobacco, and cherry to come up with robust wines like the Amarone Acinatico. My experience was different from what I had expected (and villa-less), but I loved the more personalized experience I got. Though I don't suggest you mess up the directions on purpose (she would probably like to get some rest), the wines are splendid. Go see that villa. You won't regret it.
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Original baglioni cala del porto