The Solomon Islands are pleasantly void of mass tourism. For those that make it here no doubt wonder why. Even better is discovering Oravae Cottage a tiny island with a quaint cottage and "penthouse" double bedroom annex. You're fed by the local family who live at the end of the island and days are spent doing as much or as little as you please. Dive, snorkel, surf, trek or simply lie in a hammock watching the water changes from blue to green as the day goes by.
I’m not afraid of heights, but I’ll admit that peering over the ledge into the 100-metre (about 330 feet) decent awaiting me sends me into a bit of a panic attack. I can’t see the bottom of the cave, as a thick layer of mist fills the gaping shaft. Our guide assures me that I can’t fall; that the rope attached to my waist will allow me to control the speed of my decent…but my mind is screaming at me “Are you crazy?! You’re going to die!” It takes everything in me to slide off the ledge and allow myself to hang mid-air over the void. It takes 30 minutes to reach the bottom of the cave, and once we arrive, I am surrounded by pre-historic rock formations with plants jutting through the crevices and an understanding of how very small I am in this world. Our guide leads us through various sections of the cave. Sometimes we climb, sometimes we crawl, and other times we tip-toe across small ledges, hooking ourselves to the carabineers as we go. About half way through our exploration, our guide tells us to turn off our flashlights and look up. As we do,the ceiling of the cave begins to glow, covered by hundreds of glow worms. This is truly a whole other world beneath our own. This adventure took place in the Waitomo Caves on New Zealand’s north island. We did the 'Lost World Challenge' through ‘Waitomo Adventures’ company. Their website is www.waitomo.co.nz Enjoy the rush!
Lake Tekapo is a sweet little slice of heaven, and a paradise you'll have all to your own, should you visit outside the high season. The glacial waters running out of the Southern Alps are every bit as mesmerizing as they are refreshing - which is good, since I was knee-deep in the frigid water for half on hour while working on this image. It was nice to have a distraction. I made this image with the help of a dirty black sock - I held the sock over the top half of the frame, where the sun was brightest, allowing me to capture an even exposure throughout. Cheapest piece of gear I've ever bought.
The Antarctic weather was unpredictable and often inhospitable throughout our 1-week expedition cruise. Dramamine came in really handy the last day as we sailed the Gerlach Straight. I popped them like candy before cautiously eating dinner. Just a third of our 42 shipmates were at the tables; most took just one bite of their delicious Argentine steak before calling it an early night. But just the day before, the sun was beaming, water was glassy smooth, and I comfortably shed my upper layers down to a tank top during a hike to a viewpoint over Paradise Bay. Our captain joined us and mentioned that it was the most beautiful day he’d seen in at least 10 years. It was a beauty so vast and still, that the exuberant sense of joy of that moment felt deeply imprinted within me.
Sometimes when you travel, you find places that overwhelm you with peace the minute you step into their space. My husband and I found such a place on one of New Zealand’s most northern shores. New Zealand is a sparsely populated country, especially in the far north, where you can drive for miles without seeing another soul. After a very cold and wet winter on the south island, my husband and I were desperate for some sunshine and beach time. They say the tip of the north island enjoys an endless summer, so we made our way up the coast and booked into the “Endless Summer Lodge.” Tucked into a beautiful green hillside, this oasis is not only surrounded by the thick, gorgeous green New Zealand’s known for; it also sits directly across from the beach. The windows on the front of the lodge look out across a vast expanse of ocean with nothing but a couple palm trees interrupting the view. This retreat provides the opportunity to walk along endless stretches of beach, or to lie in the hammocks set up in the front yard while listening to the waves roll in. The owners are extremely kind, and you can enjoy your dinner in the garden behind the lodge each night. The quiet town of Ahipara sits at the end of ninety-mile beach. You can reach it by car from Auckland taking Highway 1 north. There are a lot of great small towns to stop in on the way, so take your time getting there; and once you do, soak up this little oasis as long as you can!
In mid-May I spent a day kayaking in the idyllic Milford Sound - my first day in New Zealand. The water was cool and clean and the fog gave the Sound a mysterious feel. Kayaking offered the opportunity to get up close with some playful fur seal pups, as well as get right up next to a few of the hundreds of spontaneous waterfalls that had cropped up that morning. The guides from Roscoe's Milford Kayaks were knowledgeable and their love for New Zealand's natural beauty was evident; our guide provided a constant narrative of the history of New Zealand and its people. After a grueling day of travel to just arrive in New Zealand, I couldn't have asked for a better start, and it remains the standout memory of my trip.
Cable cars, Victorian houses, fresh crabs on the waterfront: Wellington, New Zealand, is a Southern Hemisphere City by the Bay. With a harbor at its doorstep, farms to the north, and one of the world’s most active café scenes, this city is well fed. Photo by Alex Efimoff. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.
Most visitors to Australia have heard of Kakadu National Park in the Northern Territory, but few realize that neighboring Nitmiluk National Park, four hours south of Darwin, is actually more spectacular. During the wet season, from November to April, electrical storms streak across the sky, Nitmiluk’s waterfalls transform into thundering cascades, and immense flocks of magpie geese, brolga cranes, and jabiru storks converge on the wetlands. Year-round, the Katherine River carves a path through 13 sandstone gorges—Nitmiluk’s main attraction. The custodians of this land are the Jawoyn, Aboriginal people with one of the oldest living cultures on earth. Jawoyn-owned Nitmiluk Tours rents canoes and guides visitors through the gorges in flat-bottom boats. Arrange for excursions at the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre, where the Jawoyn also run arguably the best restaurant in a 220-mile radius: the Sugarbag Café. The menu incorporates bush tucker (native ingredients) in such entrées as kangaroo steak accompanied by Kakadu plum chutney and barramundi fillets with lemon-myrtle sauce. For more than 50,000 years, the Jawoyn people have hunted and camped throughout the Nitmiluk region. Their vivid depictions of spirits, warriors, kangaroos, turtles, and emus can be seen painted in yellow, red, and white on the rust-colored rock of the gorges and throughout the park. Some of the estimated 3,000 rock-art sites here are currently accessible only by helicopter. Contact Aboriginal helicopter pilot Richard Baker through Nitmiluk Tours to see rock art at such secluded sites as Nipbamjen. At this remote gorge system, one waterfall cascades into another, forming emerald-colored swimming holes. “I used to work for the Parks and Wildlife Service,” Baker says. “Out here, all that textbook science stuff is still living and breathing as if development never occurred.” —Chantal Dunbar Photo by Jimmy Chen. This appeared in the March/April 2010 issue.
by Luke Nguyen, As Told To Sarah Henry This Argentine-inspired grill is cool and kitschy. The decor is a mix of cowhide, faded South American posters, and leather furniture. Whole pigs or lambs roast slowly over an open pit, and the bar upstairs has a killer cocktail list.” 358 Cleveland St., 61/(0) 2-8399-1440, porteno.com.au Photo by Petrina Tinslay. See all of Luke Nguyen’s favorite places in Surry Hills, Sydney. This story appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.
There's not too much to do on Rottnest Island, just off the coast of Perth in Western Australia, unless you want there to be! Since there aren't cars on the island, excepting the off maintenance vehicle and one bus, visitors use their two feet or a bike to get around. You can bring your own, or rent one. Since the island isn't large, you can't really get lost. Since there's very little infrastructure, there isn't much in the way of distraction from the pristine ocean water, white-sand beaches and incredible snorkeling that exists all over the islands surrounding reefs and limestone shelves. My recommendation: take the ferry from Perth or Fremantle and plan to stay one night at minimum. The first day, bike the entire circumference of the island just to get your bearings. Do so without stopping very much, as long as you gear up with extra water, then tucker yourself out and get a good night's sleep. (Campsites and small cottages are both available to rent.) The next day, walk or ride the bus to the spots which you note to have the best snorkeling or the least-crowded stretches of sand. Do nothing at those places except sunbathe, bathe in the water or snorkel. Simply, relax. It's incredible how so close to a major city it can feel like you are truly in the middle of nowhere and about as far from civilization as one can get without it being too far away to be useful in an emergency... One last tip: don't miss out on enjoying a scoop or two at Simmo's Ice Cream.
The ultimate wilderness escape for those who like a bit of pampering, this conservation-conscious resort takes up just 2 percent of a 4,000-acre nature reserve in the Blue Mountains. Indoor-outdoor pools and fireplaces are standard in all 40 of the stand-alone suites, which include binoculars for viewing wildlife. Charles Darwin visited Wolgan Valley in 1836. On sunset tours, in-house guides help spot the wallaby and wombat species that fascinated the naturalist. Spa treatments use native ingredients such as wattle seed and eucalyptus. From $1,502, all-inclusive. 61/(0) 2-6350-1800. Photo courtesy of Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort and Spa. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue. . wolganvalley.com
by Luke Nguyen, As Told To Sarah Henry Luke Nguyen says: “Our restaurant’s dining room is rustic, and we hope it feels warm and inviting, like you’re visiting our home.” 545 Crown St., 61/(0) 2-9698-4355, redlantern.com.au Photo by Petrina Tinslay. See all of Luke Nguyen’s favorite places in Surry Hills, Sydney. This story appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.
Swimming with a Maori Wrasse at Agincourt Reef located 38 kilometers from Cairns on The Great Barrier Reef. I highly recommend Silverswift dive boat out of Cairns or their sister vessel the Silversonic out of Port Douglas.
Melbourne is by far one of the best cities I have ever lived in! A cross between San Francisco and London, the city perfectly combines the old with the new. Many of the buildings exude an old world feel; while the coffee shops, bars, art galleries and restaurants pulse with a new world vibe. Melbourne is the place to be for artists of any genre, but especially if graffiti is your medium. While Melbourne can boast about its National Art Gallery, Australian Centre for the Moving Image, the Aboriginal Cultural Centre, and the Centre for Contemporary Art, some of its most brilliant artistic treasures can be found on the sides of the buildings, down narrow alleyways. What makes the street art culture of Melbourne so unique is that the city actually supports it! They encourage graffiti artists and promote their work in tourist brochures, and city informational guides. It is a constantly changing exhibit, and the best part is you never know what you’re going to see around the next corner. Melbourne is super easy to get around, either by foot, free shuttles, or the tram lines. Hosier lane is Melbourne’s most famous graffiti laneway, but simply wander through the alleyways of Collins and Bourke Streets and you’ll be amazed at what people can do with a can of spray-paint.
These days New Zealand’s landscape may be best known from scenes in The Lord of the Rings, but set aside your preconceptions of Mt. Doom: Mt. Ngaurahoe (Doom’s butt double in the films) and the craters surrounding it are gorgeous. The Tongariro Crossing is aptly known as the best one-day hike in New Zealand (certainly on the North Island) and is immensely popular. Friends tell me stories of hiking in a long line of slow strangers. The secret: sunrise. We camped at Discovery Lodge with views of Mt. Ngaurahoe and Mt. Ruapehu from our tent. Our hosts encouraged us to begin early to avoid the crowd. Before dawn, they shuttled us to a drop-off near Mangatepopo Hut. Eight hours later they got us at Ketetahi Road. Best decision ever. We were already hiking at sunrise and had the trail to ourselves. We went at our own pace, in peace and awe. We were the first ones to lay eyes on the Emerald Lakes that day. We were the only figures in our photos. Getting up before sunrise was worth it, and it turns out Discovery Lodge has the earliest shuttle to the Crossing. The Tongariro Crossing is 17km (10.5mi) one way. The hike is staggering, both physically and aesthetically. The track is often steep and sometimes requires scrambling. The pay-off is great: striking colors where you least expect them, like the algal mats thriving in crystal water amid clouds of steam venting from the volcano walls. It took us seven hard but much-loved hours that I consider one of my top life experiences.
by Luke Nguyen, As Told To Sarah Henry Since Surry Hills was an industrial and commercial center early on, it seems like there’s a pub on nearly every corner. The Norfolk recently got a makeover. It’s a funky little place with great photos on the wall, an internal courtyard, tacos on the menu, and beer on tap. Don’t miss the Norfolk’s version of a Bloody Mary, served in a soup can. 305 Cleveland St., 61/(0) 2-9699-3177, thenorfolk.co Photo by Petrina Tinslay. See all of Luke Nguyen’s favorite places in Surry Hills, Sydney. This story appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.
by Luke Nguyen, As Told To Sarah Henry This spot is an oasis of greenery in the middle of the city. Chef Richard Francis and his wife, Rainey [a server at Red Lantern], run this café in Richard Unsworth’s garden store. The result is a warm sanctuary where you can have good food and great coffee. I like to go there for breakfast. They offer simple, well-prepared egg dishes, and salads made with heirloom tomatoes. 357 Cleveland St., 61/(0) 2-8021-6406, gardenlife.com.au/cafe Photo by Petrina Tinslay. See all of Luke Nguyen’s favorite places in Surry Hills, Sydney. This story appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.
After you’ve canoed, sailed, scuba dived, and visited the resort’s sanctuary for the critically endangered hawksbill turtle, you’ll be ready to recline on your patio for a view of the extinct 2,300-foot Mount Otemanu volcano. —Brendan Brady Le Méridien Bora Bora, French Polynesia. (800) 543-4300, starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien, from $605. Photo courtesy of lodging. This appeared in the September/October 2010 issue. See more overwater bungalows.
Burn a few calories while adding many more during Zest’s Walking Gourmet tour of downtown. A guide will share local secrets (Did you know Wellington has more bars, restaurants, and cafés per capita than New York?) while you sample honey and balsamic dark chocolate at Bohemein chocolate shop. $205. Photo by Lindsay Keats. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.
You can wade for what seems like forever through these shallow crystal clear waters... and then you'll hit the edge of Ningaloo Reef! Throw on your snorkel gear and explore the depths of what I consider to be a reef even greater than Great Barrier. Then sit back and relax on the gorgeous beach and enjoy the laid back atmosphere of this little town in its own slice of paradise along the Western Australian coast.
The Sounds of Silence tour at Ayers Rock Resort begins at sunset, when the iconic rock formations of Uluru and Kata Tjuta glow fiery red. Take a short walk through the dunes to a panoramic viewpoint, then dine outdoors on Aussie fare, including crocodile canapés, barbecued kangaroo, and wild barramundi. When night falls, an astronomer directs you to sights in the southern sky and explains the stars’ significance in the culture of Uluru’s traditional landowners, the aboriginal Anangu people. $158 for a four-hour tour, including dinner and drinks. Rooms at the resort from $188 per night. Voyages Ayers Rock Resort, 61/(0) 2-8296-8010. Photo by Dai Fujihara via Creative Commons. This story appeared in the January/February 2011 issue.
Although Uluru is an iconic image, I cannot even begin to describe the power of this place when seen up close. The size alone will blow your mind (it takes 6 hours to walk around the entire rock) and the many inlets, crevices, and plants growing in and around this “rock” will put you in awe of nature. This oasis named the “Sacred Waters” of Uluru is a deep pool at the base of one area of the rock. It has been the watering hole crucial for survival to both the Aboriginal peoples and desert dwelling animals of Australia for millions of years. The path of the water running from the top of the rock to the pool below has created this beautiful stain on the rock that shimmers like the inside of an abalone shell. In the scorching heat of the desert, just looking at this beautiful oasis instantly begins to cool you down. Although there are many trips and tours offered to the rock, I would highly encourage you to sign up for one of the tours offered by Anangu Tours. These tours are led by an Aboriginal guide of the Anangu people who will tell you the history of the rock as they know it, in their original language (shared through a translator). Uluru is not an easy place to reach, and with all the amazing things to see and do in Australia, it is easy to be tempted to give it a miss. But if you do, you are truly missing out on experiencing the original life -breath and heart of Australia – possibly the oldest oasis in the world.
The two-night journey traverses 1,851 miles from Adelaide in South Australia to Darwin in the Northern Territory. As the train traces the route taken by 19th-century Afghan camel drivers, Platinum Service travelers have the opportunity to disembark and explore the iconic rust-red Uluru monolith and Aboriginal rock art in the Katherine Gorge. From $862. 61/(0) 8-8213-4592. Image courtesy of Great Southern Rail/ Facebook. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
The Te Papa museum combines New Zealand’s dramatic history with its high-tech present. Don’t miss the traditional greenstone and wood carvings or the 60-foot wall of constantly changing images, videos, and words manipulated by remote-control-wielding visitors. 55 Cable St., 64/(0) 4-381-7000. Photo by Sime/Estock Photo. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.
Twice a week, Melbourne’s beloved Mountain Goat Brewery throws open its doors—and taps. Make friends by buying a round of the signature Hightale Ale or award-winning Surefoot Stout. In a town where half the men seem to make their own beer, this microbrewery’s recipes are among the best. A recent batch included a Belgian blonde ale aged for nine months in oak chardonnay barrels. Corner of North and Clark Sts., Richmond, Wednesday and Friday starting at 5 p.m., 61/(0) 3-9428-1180, goatbeer.com.au. Photo courtesy of Valentyn Volkov/Alam. This appeared in the September/October 2010 issue.
Aerosol-wielding artists from around the world have left their mark on Melbourne. Hosier Lane, declared a “graffiti tolerance zone” by the city council, contains the area’s densest collection of spray-painted masterpieces. —Chris Baty Photo by Meena Kadri. This appeared in the September/October 2010 issue.
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