The Saint-Roch neighborhood, a 15-minute walk from Vieux-Québec (Old Québec), is a popular place to hang out, thanks in part to this microbrewery and bistro. All the beers are handmade in old-fashioned styles. Try the Malgven, a toasty amber ale. 300 Rue Dorchester, Québec City, (418) 614-0932. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue.
The iconic spires and copper gables of the 618-room Fairmont Le Château Frontenac define the Québec City skyline. The castle-like hotel, built in 1893, took its name from one of the early French colonial governors. Overlooking the St. Lawrence River, the Château Frontenac has hosted heads of state (Winston Churchill, Franklin Roosevelt, Queen Elizabeth II) and Hollywood celebrities (Alfred Hitchcock, Barbara Stanwyck, James Cagney). Today, guests are greeted in the lobby by Santol, the hotel’s canine ambassador. Doubles from $180. 1 Rue des Carrières, Québec City, (418) 692-3861. Photo by William Manning/Alamy. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue.
Located in Old Quebec City, Érico is part chocolate museum and part retail store. The museum part is small but interesting. Displays educate visitors on how cocoa is harvested, fermented, roasted, ground, and turned into chocolate. There are also quirky displays including a clock and dress made completely of chocolate! Through a small window, you can glimpse into the kitchen to see the chocolatiers work their magic. When you’re finished with the museum, cross the threshold to the store and check out all the sweet things. The chocolates all looked so enticing – some filled with ingredients that are quintessentially Québécois like maple syrup. To be honest though, I found the chocolates to be a bit pricey but I couldn’t resist a cup of the hot chocolate. It was a cold day and we had spent the better part of it doing a lot of walking. The sweet cup of molten chocolate goodness was just the perfect way to warm me up and to restore my energy. Before we left, we bought a small set of chocolate themed coasters as a thank you gift for our Airbnb hostess. Érico is located on Rue Saint-Jean, which intersects Old Quebec City’s ramparts so you can arrive at it by walking the ramparts from the direction of the Citadelle. There are plenty of commercial establishments line Rue Saint-Jean – you can shop, drink and eat your way to the chocolate!
The hotel occupies three historic buildings in Québec’s old port. Its 95 rooms are decorated with artifacts (such as ceramics, vials, and buttons) found during archaeological digs on the property’s 300-year-old site. Doubles from $189. 8 Rue Saint-Antoine, Québec City, (418) 692-2211. Photo by Authentik Canada/Flickr.com. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue.
While walking within the walls of Old Québec a few years ago, (my fourth visit, but the first for my wife), this blond-maned horse caught my eye. Incidentally, in Québec French, 'blonde' is more than just a hair color--it's often used to mean 'girlfriend,' 'honey.' This city on a cliff is always packed in the summers--Québec is a season-long festival during the all too brief warm months. This particular year was especially festive--the 400th anniversary of its 1608 founding...a memorable year to be there.
Housed in the oldest residential building (dating to 1675) in Québec City, "Aux Anciens Canadiens" is a restaurant that appeals to locals and visitors alike. Traditional specialties like 'tourtière' (a baked meat pie) might include wildlife of Le Grand Nord: caribou, anyone? (Oui, monsieur, it's delicious!) I had eaten here years ago as a single student; I was able to return a few years ago with my wife for the 400th anniversary of the founding of Québec City: vive la bonne cuisine! Address: 34 rue Saint-Louis Phone: 418-692-1627 Website: http://www.auxancienscanadiens.qc.ca
Drive half a day straight north from Boston, and you arrive in French-speaking Québec City, established in 1608 on a strategic bluff above the St.-Lawrence River, still surrounded by its wall. Charles Dickens' 19th-century description of the place still holds true: "The impression made upon the visitor by this Gibraltar of America, its giddy heights, its citadel suspended, as it were, in the air; its picturesque steep streets and frowning gateways; and the splendid views which burst upon the eye at every turn, is at once unique and lasting.” Thoreau wrote: “I still remember the harbour far beneath me, sparkling like silver in the sun, the answering headlands of Point Levis on the south-east, the frowning Cap Tourmente abruptly bounding the seaward view in the north-east…You look out from the ramparts of the citadel beyond the frontiers of civilization. Yonder small group of hills [form] the portals of the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay." Mid-summer in Québec city is one giant festival--come in July for a plethora of outdoor performances in the late-lingering twilight: http://www.infofestival.com/
Walking back from a fabulous dinner in Quebec City, my husband and I popped a corner to find this stunning piece of art illuminated by the lower town city lights. Lower Basse-ville boasts a number of these hidden gems.
Lovely cafe tucked off the main shopping street. Stop in for a bowl of cafe au lait, a glass of house red or a cheese sandwich. A local gem in Quebec City.
I've been to Québec City several times, and it's never boring. Street-art is all over Vieux-Québec (The "Old" city)--sculpture, plantings, frescoes... This is the Fresque du Petit Champlain, just a couple of blocks from the St. Lawrence River, a fresco depicting various time-periods in the history of this neighborhood, the oldest commercial street in North America. Once, on a train from Québec to Montréal, I struck up a conversation with a woman whose family used to live in this neighborhood--although it's still residential, with restaurants and boutiques, it's always full of tourists. Back then, she said, "it was full of Irish immigrant families," like hers. "Although they didn't speak French, they and the Québecois got along just fine--they all hated the English!"
Along with the kitsch there's plenty of whimsy down in the streets below the Citadel's cliffs in Old Québec. I'd been to Québec City several times while still a student, but my wife had never been. After eleven years away, I returned, introducing her to one of my favorite places. Unlikely art along the St.-Lawrence: even in North America's oldest urban neighborhood, there's always something new. Vive les bicyclettes!
On my last holiday, the highlight was a trip to the fabulous Quebec City. Because not only does it stand out from the rest of North America, but it also sounds out as one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. As I took a step off our Royal Caribbean cruise ship, I knew we only had a limited time to visit everything we wanted to see. Our plans soon vanished though as we became more and more relaxed. After a couple of hours, we no longer wanted to rush around and see everything. Instead, the vibe of the city and the people made us feel as though we wanted to visit a coffee shop and talk to friends. It made sound simple, but it was this that became my highlight. Quebec City makes you feel welcome and part of their amazing culture. It welcomes you with open arms and when you feel it’s time to go, you feel as though you could have come here to see nothing but the people that live there. I’ll definitely be going back, but with more time on my hands to truly enjoy my surroundings.
Opened in 1871 as a general store, J.A .Moisan is now specialty foods store. When I’m in Old Québec, it’s my go to place for items for a picnic lunch or lazy dinner. Stepping inside J.A. Moisan, you're greeted by old world charm - a dark, wood filled room crammed with foodstuffs. I feel like I’ve been transported back to the 1870’s. There are two sets of entry doors. I always enter in on the right side because those take me straight to the deli counter. There I will find the delicious pates, terrines, and cheeses that my epicurean heart pines for. With restraint, I pick out a few items. Into my picnic bag will go a baguette, a box of crackers, some fruit and drinks. But what picnic lunch would be complete without dessert…..and who makes better dessert than the French? Seriously. Just around the corner from the deli counter is the desserts counter. As I near it, I always seem to hear Madame Mille-Feuille calling me and if they have Napoleons, I have to have some. I confess that there have been days when one dessert goes into the picnic bag and the other is devoured before I even leave the store. J.A. Moisan has a small cafe section with a few tables. Before I leave, I head to the shelves stocked with "produit d’erable" which, in my mind, translates to yummy stuff made with the goodness of maple syrup. I pick up a few items for my own pantry and as gifts for friends. If you’re a foodie visiting Old Québec, J.A. Moisan is worth a visit. Bring a big bag!
Old Québec City looks and feels like a charming town in France that was transported to the shores of the St. Lawrence River more than four centuries ago. Step foot in Old Québec City and you’ll be surrounded by quaint, historic stone buildings flanking narrow streets paved with stone blocks. Everywhere you go, you will be reminded of the region’s Francophone heritage but this is not France, it’s Canada and the native Indian tribes have put their stamp on the Québécois identity. The result is a wonderful fusion of two cultures. French is the language spoken but the accent is uniquely Québécois. There is plenty of divine French food to be savored but I also scarfed down more than my fair share of Québec’s quintessential foods, poutine and tourtière. I loved strolling through galleries specializing in native Indian art. By the time I got home, I had gained a few pounds and developed an obsession with Inuit soapstone sculptures! Old Québec City is undeniably a place that you will want to explore on foot. After you end your stroll through Place-Royal and Quartier du Petit Champlain, walk up to Terrasse Dufferin and gaze up at the famed hotel, Château Frontenac. Then head to the ramparts of the Citadelle to take in the views overlooking the St. Lawrence. Old Québec City is a beautiful city with old world European charm that beckons you to slow down. If you live on the east coast of the US, a visit to Old Québec City makes for a perfect long weekend escape!
Beneath the ramparts of Québec City's Citadelle, the 'Rue du Petit-Champlain' is one of the oldest streets in North America. From its beginnings in the 1600's, this French colonial lane became a neighborhood of Irish immigrants in the 19th century and today it's a pedestrian quarter full of boutiques and art galleries. Sure it's touristy, but it's historic and the Saint Lawrence River is just a block or two over. In summer, grab a maple-sugar-coated ice-cream cone and wander the neighborhood. Watch out for the birds.
Wandering the back streets within the walls of Old Québec, I happened upon some unlikely art--this stenciled tribute to surrealism: "this is not graffiti."
Inside the Canada VIA Rail Quebec City station were these simple light fixtures. A little bit of stained glass mixed with conical shapes made for a stunning view while waiting for the train to Montreal.
My girlfriend and I flew up to Quebec City for 2 nights. It was the perfect quick get-away from New York City in August when it is hot and humid. The flight time allocated for 90 minutes, but actually only took about 70 in reality - so its super quick. And once you are in old town of Quebec City, you feel like you are in Europe surounded by French speaking locals and other Quebec provence tourists, in a beautiful and quaint historic city.
One of the best views of Québec City is from the water; take a ferry ride across the St. Lawrence river from the base of the old city across to Lévis. (A round-trip is a relaxing half-hour at most.) Looking back at Québec, you'll agree with Charles Dickens' 19th-century description: "The impression made upon the visitor by this Gibraltar of America, its giddy heights, its citadel suspended, as it were, in the air; its picturesque steep streets and frowning gateways; and the splendid views which burst upon the eye at every turn, is at once unique and lasting.” [North America's fate as a mostly English-dominated land-mass was determined here in the 1759, at the Battle of the Plains of Abraham. Whoever ended up controlling these heights would end up controlling access into the interior of the continent...And the rest is history. But the French language lives on, alive and well, in Québec.]
Thousands of people travel to Quebec City, Canada to catch a glimpse of the Frontenac Hotel - a landmark work of architecture. However, while visiting at dusk, we turned around and saw much more to the Old City: a sweeping vista of the St. Lawrence River, Lower Basse-ville, and in the left corner, just below the horizon and above the tree branches a live art projection called The Image Mill. Projected onto an old grain silo approximately 600 meters x 30 meters in size, the outdoor art installation takes its viewers through "four movements" depicting Quebec history transforming grain silos into a live art installation.
While walking along the Promenade Champlain next to the St. Lawrence in Quebec City, I stumbled on this unique "Fog Fountain".
Quebec really knows how to throw a party. It may be cold, but the Quebecois absolutely love it. The Hotel de Glace is just one example. Covering 32,000 square feet, this glistening example of "ice engineering" is just too much fun to pass up. If you're feeling adventurous, make a reservation and spend the night, all of the rooms are themed differently with unique ice carvings in each room. The hotel will provide you with arctic style sleeping bags designed to keep you warm well below zero. If perhaps you would like a libation, there is a bar that serves signature drinks. I sampled a Hotel De Glace cocktail that consisted of vodka and ice cider served in a shot glass carved from ice. After dark falls, the hotel comes to life with beautiful colored lighting that really highlight the structure. For a bit more fun for you adrenaline junkies, you will find a climbing wall made of ice, the gauntlet is now thrown down. For more information visit the hotels web site at http://www.hoteldeglace-canada.com. Text by Kurt Winner Photography by www.xdachez.com
Can you imagine a place where the lattes are artsy and delicious, where the yells of baby are welcomed with smiles and helpful insight, where expecting moms can take yoga classes? This is not a teaser for the new mothers of this world - such a place really does exist in Quebec City. Bougeotte & Placotine is a hybrid of coffeeshop, yoga studio, seminar class and daycare center. It's a place where parents can meet with other parents, watch their kids play together while talking about everything and anything, without being judged by the hipsters that usually hang out in cool coffeeshops. If you are visiting Quebec City with baby or with baby on board, make sure to stop by this little piece of heaven for parents.
Are you daring enough to shed all your clothes down to your bathing suits to bathe in the snow, while it is -20C outside? Every year, a "snow bath" is the most fun to watch highlight at the Quebec City winter carnival that takes place for 3 weeks in Jan-Feb. At this 58th winter carnival, 80 some volunteers participated. They had to exercise for 2 hours, get into a hot tub & be out for display in the chilling weather for at least 30 minutes. If you want to participate, just sign up a few days before. Otherwise, just go watch & cheer these dare devils!
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