A two-hour drive from Granada, in the village of Gigante, 16 sustainably built treehouses with plunge pools and outdoor showers await guests. Classes are held on a huge beachfront platform. Every stay includes one wellness class (meditation, yoga, or a raw foods consultation). Throughout the year, visiting yoga gurus lead retreats. Seven-night yoga retreats from $1,850, including meals, activities, and workshops. (509) 456-7737, aquanicaragua.com. Image courtesy of Aqua Wellness Resort. This story appeared in the January/February 2012 issue. Find other yoga retreats:Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga InstituteKripalu Center for Yoga and Health, Massachusetts Jicaro Island Ecolodge, NicaraguaGaia Retreat and Spa, AustraliaComo Shambhala Estate, BaliAnanda, IndiaDomaine de la Grausse, France

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La Sombra Ecolodge
Unless you rent a car, arriving at La Sombra Ecolodge way up in the mountains of Matagalpa requires a couple of rides in packed chicken buses followed by 45 minutes in a bouncy cab along a semi-paved road. But just look at this little, green guy - he alone made the trip worthwhile! In addition to the ranario ("froggery") where you can see these green tree frogs, they have a butterfly observatory, and coffee groves where we saw several varieties of toucans and parrots on an early morning birding walk. The lodge is comfortable and the food is delicious. And if you are a coffee geek like me, it's also a great place to learn about coffee (and drink it too, of course). The staff is more than happy to give you a tour of the coffee groves and processing facilities.
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San Juan del Sur
Buena Vista Surf Club (BVSC) is a tropical modern eco-lodge nestled in a hill overlooking Playa Maderas. Guests stay in free-standing tree houses with magnificent views of the lush jungle and Pacific ocean. BVSC was built by a Dutch couple, Marc and Marielle, who left Amsterdam behind for the sun and surf of Nicaragua. The hotel is off the grid and rooms do not have electricity during the day and use solar powered energy at night. Rates include mouth-watering family style breakfasts and dinners. Those who do not surf can enjoy the swim-friendly beaches up from Maderas or spend time reading or doing yoga on the lodge's sprawling sundeck. The most memorable parts of my stay though were the amazing owners and guests I met at BVSC.
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Jicaro Lodge
It’s easy to be zen at this secluded sustainable resort located on a tiny island in Lake Nicaragua. Guests arrive via a ten-minute boat ride from the colonial town of Granada. Once on island, activities range from kayaking around the lake to lounging in a hammock on the deck of one of the nine casitas. Yoga is offered every day on a lakeside platform that looks out to the Mombacho volcano. Well-known yoga instructors host week-long retreats throughout the year. From $290 per night. 50/(5) 2558-7702, jicarolodge.com. Photo courtesy of Jicaro Lodge. Find other yoga retreats:Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga InstituteKripalu Center for Yoga and Health, MassachusettsAqua Wellness Resort, NicaraguaGaia Retreat and Spa, AustraliaComo Shambhala Estate, BaliAnanda, IndiaDomaine de la Grausse, France
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León
I was biking around the colonial university city of León, Nicaragua, running errands...a colorful building across the street caught my eye, and since I had my camera in my backpack, I stopped, got off my bike and took a couple of shots. But then, when I turned around to get back on my bike, I noticed that it was parked against THIS vibrant wall. Wow--COLOR! A humble wooden building, instead of the more typical stone-and-stucco structure--when I leaned the bike against the wall I hadn't even noticed it; I'd biked up and down this street many times without really seeing it. Stop and park. Notice.
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Granada
Guests at Jicaro Island Ecolodge, a nine-casita resort in the middle of Lake Nicaragua, can kayak around the lake's 365 islets which formed when the Mombacho volcano erupted thousands of years ago. Early morning is the best time for spotting birds like Montezuma’s Oropendula, Ringed Kingfisher, Purple Gallinule, and Northern Jacana. I took this shot just after sunrise. Mombacho is looming in the background and two local kids are casting nets for fish.
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San Diego
A string of random events had landed me with a house/dog sitting gig in Nicaragua, the second poorest country in the Western hemisphere. Every morning at 5am, before the temperature climbed well into the 90s I took the dog for a walk up the dusty road, greeting happy workers biking into work and children waiting to go to school. One morning a mare appeared out of nowhere. Hooves pounding the ground at a full gallop, she disappeared as quickly as she'd appeared, in a cloud of dust. A beautiful morning in Nica.
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Leon
El año pasado, la Unesco ha declarado a la Basílica Catedral de la Asunción de la ciudad de León antigua capital de Nicaragua como Patrimonio Cultural de la Humanidad. En ella yace en su interior la tumba del escritor “Rubén Dario” máximo exponente del modernismo de la lengua hispana, así como otros 27 personajes ilustres. La Catedral posee una característica única y singular del barroco erguida en 1747; siendo actualmente una de las más grandes de Centroamérica, a mi parecer es icónica ya que pese a los temblores y la proximidad de los volcanes Momotombo y Cerro Negro sus muros siguen en pie.
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Volcan Maderas
You may not know it, but in the middle of Lake Nicaragua – a lake that makes Lake Tahoe seem like a swimming pool, lies the magical island of Ometepe. It’s home to not one, but two volcanoes, a seemingly endless shoreline and a plethora of organic farms. The island is both an agricultural hub and tourist destination. Many families here are members of cooperatives which give them the opportunity to grow their own food and sell what they don't eat. Much of the coffee grown here is of the highest quality, according to US and Canada standards, and is exported and sold abroad. While you're here, you have to climb the Maderas Volcano -- a six hour grueling climb. At the summit you can cool off in the lake at the center of this dormant volcano. Don't expect a view from the top, as the top of this volcano is almost always shrouded in clouds. When you're not climbing the volcano, I recommend checking out El Punto, a local swimming spot in Balgue. Just ask a local where it is.
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San Juan del Sur
Playa Maderas is a popular beach for surfing in San Juan del Sur. The unruly winds this day created choppy waves that were not ideal for surfing.
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Iglesia Catedral
With my rudimentary Spanish, I hadn’t understood why a local suggested wearing long pants to the night’s festival. “Because of the fireworks,” she had said (I thought). The recommendation seemed odd considering the stifling heat and humidity. But a few hours later, I was glad I complied. Standing in a frenzied crowd in front of the cathedral in the main plaza of León, Nicaragua, balls of fire from roman candles shot past me, and I was thankful for the extra coverage. The throng was gathered around three men who danced around the square wearing wooden, box-like contraptions on their heads with roman candles protruding from all sides like quills on a porcupine. A long fuse linked the pyrotechnics, which blasted into the crowd from all angles. The three men were a glowing blur of fire and sparks, all brilliantly mirrored in the wet pavement from a recent rain. The entire plaza was a riot of flashes, shrieks, smoke, marching band clatter, and the gut-rumbling booms of larger rockets. León’s unique la Gritería Chiquita (“Small Shouting”) festival gets off to a surprisingly low-key start each 14th of August at dusk. Mass is held in the majestic Spanish Colonial cathedral, which is flanked by imposing statues of the town’s namesake lion. The somber start befits a festival that began as a symbol of penitence after a local priest’s prayers were allegedly answered in 1947 when nearby volcano Cerro Negro was threatening certain doom. León survived, and a colorful festival was born.
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Iglesia Catedral
If you're in León, Nicaragua, make sure to climb up the bell tower of its XVIII c. Cathedral (Central America's largest). When you emerge on the rooftop, domes lead your eye to a perfectly conical volcano on the horizon; stretching out below you will be a cityscape of tile and tin roofs, punctuated with palms and colonial churches, and beyond, a landscape of active geology. The cathedral has survived several centuries of earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and civil war. Wander the streets of this university town and get to know its friendly people, going about life on this hot coastal plain between the Pacific Ocean and the volcano-dominated Maribio mountain chain. Sit in the shade and sip on some juice from coconuts brought into town on a donkey-pulled cart. Marvel at the size of the papayas. And in the hottest part of the mid-afternoon, take a siesta...
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Cerro Negro
On the horizon just NE of León, Nicaragua, you can make out the giant black mound of Cerro Negro--Central America's youngest volcano. Until 1850, there was NOTHING here! Since then it's erupted dozens of times--coating the surrounding countryside and towns with ash and sand...So, from 'nothing' to 728 m (2,388 ft) high in just a few generations. And, perhaps foolishly, many visitors hike up and down into the crater. I went too. ("Look--everyone else is doing it!") One popular activity is to climb up with a beater surfboard, and then to SURF DOWN the loose pumice slope! Just don't fall...Scientists monitor the volcano carefully, but there's no barrier (other than common sense) to keep you from entering the sulfurous crater...for now.
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San Juan del Sur
We had an unforgettable experience staying at Buena Vista Surf Club, while visiting San Juan del Sur. The eco-lodge is set into a hill overlooking the jungle and Playa Maderas with a giant sundeck where guests could enjoy the view. It was a great place to catch some rays and watch the dragonflies dance during the day. Guests can schedule sunset yoga classes on the deck for the ultimate zen experience.
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León
Our neighbors and friends in Nicaragua must have been bemused as my wife and I took note of every plant, flower, and fruit; imagine someone oohing and aahing over apples, right? But we SHOULD ooh and ahh when we learn the origin of things--THIS is how cashews grow. See the comma-shaped appendage dangling on the end of the bell-pepper-like fruit? Inside that shell (which is toxic, by the way), is one raw cashew. Late March in Central America, red, orange, or yellow 'cashew-apples' (called 'marañón' in Nicaragua) hang like ornaments on these evergreen trees. You can eat the fruit--juicy and astringent--but the treasure is in the hard end-piece: one nut per fruit, and it must be roasted to de-toxify it... (Botanically, cashew-trees are related to poison-ivy!) [Brief Spanish-language lesson--where to say what: in Spain, these nuts are called "anacardos," in northern Mexico, "nuez de la India," and in some parts of South America, "castaña de cajú." From southern Mexico through most of Central America on into the northern Andean countries: "marañón.")
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Treehouse Poste Rojo
Definitely off-the-beaten path, the Treehouse requires precise directions, good pronunciation and a firm will to find. Hop on the bus or take a collectivo from Granada towards the coast about 15 minutes from town, ask to be dropped off at "Poste Rojo" and you'll find a road that goes through a field and up into the hills of the jungle. You'll know you're on the right path when you reach a staircase on a steep vertical. The company is eclectic, the staff are demonstrably having the time of their lives, a fantastic playlist is always provided and the hammocks are a-swinging. Playtime has arrived. Welcome to the treehouse! A long, suspended footbridge runs from the main hangout area over to a beautiful yoga deck that overlooks jungle with a killer vantage point. No matter how hard guests seem to jump, the bridge refuses to snap, so have at it. Howler monkeys can be heard in the not-too-distant trees and colorful birds spotted swooping in arcs, while the frogs' and toads' beeps and beats weave together for a surprisingly apt rendition of the Star Wars theme. The treehouse offers hammocks and dorms, and private rooms, casitas and treehouses, from $4.50/night. The non-hammock options feature gorgeous wooden beds with incredibly comfortable mattresses. The intimate community, family-style dinners, attentive staff and playful vibe is a refreshing experience from your run-of-the-mill stop.
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San Juan del Sur
A short hike north of Playa Maderas lead to some less crowded beaches that were more swim friendly and less crowded.
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Granada
This highlight come from this past winter when I was living and traveling through Central America. While I had a base in Coco, Costa Rica, I spent three months traveling around Central America, including Monteverde, Palo Verde National Park, and San Jose in Costa Rica, and Granada, Lake Nicaragua, and Masaya Volcano in Nicaragua. This photo comes from the bell tower of Iglesia La Merced in Granada.
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Catedral de Leon
From the roof of León's cathedral, (Central America's largest), you can contemplate the long line of active volcanoes on the horizon just beyond Nicaragua's second-largest city. Colonial churches, such as the 18th-c. Calvario in this scene, punctuate the low skyline. "On top of the world" in this tropical university-town might not be that high, but there's enough heat and history to give you plenty of perspective.
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Magnific Rock
Perched high above a breathtaking rock masterpiece in the town of Las Salinas sits Magnific Rock Hotel, an inviting wooden lodge with the best sunset view on the Pacific coast. Surfers flock here for the legendary Popoyo break, but also for Santana's, both of which are easily scouted from the 270-degree panoramic view from the top. Rice and beans can do for only so long. By the time you arrive at the Rock, you've likely forgotten that fresh, organic food is an option. From lobster curry and spinach salad to rib eye steak and cous cous, the food is nothing short of orgasmic. Featuring farm fresh, organic herbs and vegetables from the hotel garden, fresh fish and lobster from the ocean below and locally sourced meat and grains, the healthy, creative fusion menu of the Australian chef will undoubtedly make the one of the best meals you have in Nicaragua. Sunset cocktails & dinner at the Rock is a must. Stay a night – or 10 – and indulge in the warm, uncrowded waves. Before you know it, you'll be one of the many long-term guests. With a staff so friendly you'll soon feel like one of the family, it's not hard to imagine settling in for a few weeks. Yoga retreats, guided surf trips, massages and excursions are all available. From $20/night. +505 8608 5818. From Rivas, take a taxi (about 45 mins.) or hop a chicken bus into Las Salinas. Photo: Charlie Brown
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Catarina
Bicycles are my favorite mode of transportation and they just happen to be a great way to carry way more than most people would be able to carry by hand or on foot alone. At some of the huge traffic roundabouts in the countryside of Nicaragua you will find people selling fruit, vegetables, snacks and in this case fresh baked bread. This vendor is prepared for all conditions and even has a red bicycle pump strapped to the top tube of his bike frame. This style of utility bike is common all over the world and is regarded as rugged, reliable, safe and most importantly simple. Bikes are a great way for people and their products to get to market.
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Matagalpa
A traditional Nicaraguan lunch prepared for us by a coffee farmer's wife. The farm visit was arranged by Matagalpa Tours who arrange fantastic cultural experiences in the highlands area.
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El Mercado Viejo Craft Market
In Perú, I'd spotted a chess with Spaniard and Inca as opposing sides; I didn't have the cash on hand and couldn't get it, though. Then, a few years later, visiting the handicrafts market in Masaya, Nicaragua, I saw another set--no Inca history in Central America, but still a cool (and inexpensive) souvenir. The faces on the tiny pieces are expressive--I can only imagine the real, almost larger-than-life consternation the Inca must've felt when a handful of European soldiers and horses turned their Andean world upside down in the 16th century...
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Teatro Municipal
Built in the 1880's, León's Municipal Theater (officially known as the "Teatro Municipal José de la Cruz Mena") is one of the best performance venues in this colonial city. Restored a couple of decades ago, it's also air-conditioned--a big plus in the hot lowlands of northwestern Nicaragua! Every month offers something different: concerts, festivals, competitions...I caught an evening of poetry-reading and regional folk-dancing put on by the local university students. On the way to the Theater's neoclassical façade, the street-fronts are simple but vibrant; you'll know you're on the right street when you see this 'rainbow row.' Note: in León, don't expect directions to an address to involve a number and street name. For example, to get to this theater, you might hear: "from the corner in the park across from the Cathedral, go a block 'abajo' ('down') and then a block 'hacia al sur' (toward the south)." Just remember: "abajo" = west, "arriba" = east, and "cuadras" are city blocks. But you might also hear this: "Well, from where the gas-station used to be, ('used to be?') go down a bit, and then across from the mango tree (which one?!), well, there you are." Have fun; hope you get there...
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Volcan Telica
A friend of mine was volunteering with Quetzaltrekkers Nicaragua which gave me the opportunity to book a flight from NYC to Managua, travel to the town of Leon and take a bus with the Quetzaltrekkers hike leaders to a small rural village close to Volcán Telica to begin a 2 day hike. Normally, the term 'outdoors' to me meant hanging out in Sheeps Meadow, Central Park with a bottle of wine and a frisbee, NOT entering 95 degree weather for a two day treck that included riding a horse for 2 hours, throwing on a 30 lb backpack and proceeding to climb the rest of the 3,481 ft volcano by foot. You only live once, right? (YOLO!) But it's true... you can take the girl out of the city, trade in her lace-up heels for some unflattering hiking boots and make her climb up a volcano. I figured out how to steer my horse (which was my first ever time doing so), threw 4 liters of water, a sleeping bag and mat, granola, ramen and a bottle of whiskey into my pack and struggled ever so proudly up and down the volcano. Locals help you streer your horse and later leave you to treck on foot, being lead entirely by your Quetzaltrekkers hike leaders. Lunch is served mid day and later relax by sundown at a campsite at the top of the volcano. For first time hikers like myself, I will say the company of a friend to push you along the way really is the key to reaching the top. It was one of the best experiences I ever had.
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León, Nicaragua
Throughout León's colonial-era downtown, relics of the turbulent 1980's remain--the popular murals of the Sandinista revolution... Nicaragua's second-largest city feels more like a laid-back town, and it's one of the best places in Central America to be a pedestrian. Baroque and neo-classical architecture anchor the streetscape, and the National University gives Leon a youthful vibe. Look beyond the traffic-light-less core, and a string of volcanoes defines the horizon. Women still carry baskets of fruit for sale on their heads as they call out in the shade of the tile-roofed buildings: "aguacate piña papaaaaaayaaaaa." (The downtown core hasn't yet been gentrified like Granada, Nicaragua or Antigua, Guatemala; León is still very much a city for its own citizens.) Politics may be lively, but León is welcoming and friendly. If you're rusty on your 1980's Central American history, ask around; when traveling, faces on walls can tell a lot, if you know how to read them. Find a local face, make a friend, and listen.
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Managua
Sometimes the perfect place to stay is not comprised of walls. For me, it is the view from the windows. Small tastes of the local atmosphere can usually be found inside: the hammock hanging in the corner, the scent of mangos, or the buzz of mosquitoes. However, until you look outside, you may as well be at home. This is one of many reasons why I loved staying with my friend Megan in her small neighborhood called Batahola Sur. By the time I visited her, she had been a resident of the capital city of Managua, Nicaragua for over a year, living in a small house with four other volunteers. Managua is not sought out as a typical tourist destination, but this presented me with the opportunity to view life as the locals view life. During the evenings, children played ball in the streets as I watched from the front stoop. They waved at me and called out, “Hello!” As I returned the gesture, the small interaction registered itself as a memory worth preserving.
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