An arts and crafts market that sets up every Saturday. Don’t leave without grabbing a quesadilla and a beer. Plaza San Jacinto, Saturdays, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. See all of Alfonsina Peñaloza’s favorite places in San Ángel, Mexico City.
This place, near the 16th-century Convento del Carmen, is famous for its churros, fried dough rolled in cinnamon sugar. A mandatory stop. 4 Plaza del Carmen 52/55-5616-0978 As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. See all of Alfonsina Peñaloza’s favorite places in San Ángel, Mexico City.
A traditional Mexican cantina. When I was in college, I played dominoes there every Thursday with some good girlfriends. 3 Francisco I. Madero 52/55-5616-4668 As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. See all of Alfonsina Peñaloza’s favorite places in San Ángel, Mexico City.
This used to be a hacienda but was turned into a restaurant almost 50 years ago. The food is phenomenal and the margaritas are famous—in fact, they’re my favorite thing on the menu. They always have a trio or pianist playing. 50 Diego Rivera 52/55-5616-1402 sanangelinn.com As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. See all of Alfonsina Peñaloza’s favorite places in San Ángel, Mexico City.
This wonderful bed and breakfast located in Condesa is a great place to spend your time in Mexico City. The staff, especially Victor and Ernesto, is extremely helpful and friendly and will provide you with site recommendations, safe taxis and a list of local eateries. I think the hotel is located in one of the best neighborhoods which is full of great restaurants, shopping, galleries and very close to the underground metro. Have a great saturday night meal at La Capital, or Azul Condesa followed by a drink at Felix in Roma. Or stay at the Red Tree for one of their festive dinners.
One of the best seafood restaurants in Mexico, as far as I’m concerned. They have tostadas de atún with a chipotle sauce, a thin sashimi-like slice of tuna with avocado and fried leek on top. Absolutely delicious. 57 Avenida de la Paz 52/55-5616-8638 As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. See all of Alfonsina Peñaloza’s favorite places in San Ángel, Mexico City.
For libations in Colonia Roma, visit the cantina Salón Covadonga, where waiters in white shirts and bow ties serve up palomas, tequila drinks made with grapefruit soda. At this sprawling local institution, you’re just as likely to find old-timers eating pulpo (octopus) and playing dominoes as you are to see groups of modern-day beatniks discussing the current art scene. —Joy Hepp Calle Puebla 121, 52/55-5533-2922. Photo by drinksbyrobert.com. This appeared in the May/June 2011 issue.
Located in Colonia Condesa, an upscale neighborhood directly west of Colonia Roma, Condesa DF hotel infuses its 1928 French neoclassic building with a modern, whimsical aesthetic. Retro lamps and hand-woven rugs from Oaxaca decorate the 40 spacious rooms. Relax on the rooftop terrace and enjoy views of the adjacent Parque de España as well as the Bosque de Chapultepec, Latin America’s largest urban park. —Joy Hepp Avenida Veracruz 102, 52/55-5241-2600 condesadf.com. Photo courtesy of Condesa DF. This appeared in the May/June 2011 issue.
Right off the market hubbub is this colonial square flush with bougainvillea. You go through a narrow alleyway, and all of a sudden you’re in the most tranquil place in Mexico City. Near Calle del Arbol and 2a Cerrada de Frontera. As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. See all of Alfonsina Peñaloza’s favorite places in San Ángel, Mexico City.
Name: Alfonsina Peñaloza Age: 31 Neighborhood: San Ángel, Mexico City, Mexico Occupation: Alfonsina works for Ethos, a nonprofit that conducts research and advises governments and other organizations on economic, gender equality, and human rights issues. Though she lives in the hip Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City, Alfonsina has been coming to San Ángel since she was a child. “Anyone who comes to visit me gets a tour of San Ángel,” she says. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. A hundred years ago, before San Ángel was absorbed into Mexico City’s urban sprawl, it was so far from the city center that it served as a country retreat for city people who built haciendas there. It is so utterly traditional that, blessedly, nothing has changed. The neighborhood—which is what it’s become—still has a sedate, rarefied atmosphere that sets it apart from the city’s buzz. San Ángel just stays the same, growing old gracefully. My mother and I always spent Saturdays at the bazaar. She hates resorting to Pottery Barn–esque bridal registries, so she comes here to buy wedding gifts instead: local pewter jugs, embroidered linen tablecloths, big, bold talavera bowls to use as beautiful centerpieces. The pewter and antiques vendors have their own stands, but there are indigenous women walking around selling place mats. This is where Mamá bought the orange and red woven straw place mats that I grew up eating on, and when they’d wear out, she’d just come back and get more. When I moved into my own place, I got some of my own—pink and blue. I also bought an ex-voto here for my place. They’re offerings made to a saint after the fulfillment of a wish, often very endearing, occasionally kitsch. Frida Kahlo collected many of these. Mine is a painting of a man, a jaguar, a cactus plant, and a saint, and there’s a little story about how grateful the man is to the saint for curing his injuries from a jaguar attack in Chiapas. The spelling is appalling. It’s quirky and very Mexican, and I love it. There are four or so stands that sell silver: rings, necklaces, bracelets—all good quality and very cheap. Some vendors even make their own jewelry. Actually, the ring I have on my finger right now came from the bazaar. I must have bought more than 30 rings by now. My mother won’t eat the street food, but I beg to differ. There’s a phenomenal quesadilla stand at the market. It’s run by three women. They don’t have a stall; they just set up informally. The simple cheese ones are good, also the one with the potatoes, or the mushrooms, or the chicharrones (pork rinds). My favorite is with flor de calabaza, squash flowers. It is so good. There’s so much going on behind the stone walls in San Ángel—you just don’t know what. A friend of mine got married in a church right near the bazaar, and her grandmother owned the house next door, part of an old hacienda. I had never noticed it before—just a long stone wall. She used her grandmother’s garden for the party, and it fit 800 people. I had no idea! There were paintings and all this cultural richness behind this totally inconspicuous wall. That’s what San Ángel is, to me. Full of hidden treasure. See all of Alfonsina’s favorite places in San Ángel: Bazaar Sabado La Camelia Cantina Churros el Convento Galería Doce La Plaza de los Arcángeles Puntarena Restaurant San Ángel Inn
My friend’s mother, Teresa Barnetche, paints these astonishing retablos of gold-plated Guadalupe virgins. They’re incredibly ornate, very Mexican and beautiful. 12 Amargura 52/55-5616-2040 As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. See all of Alfonsina Peñaloza’s favorite places in San Ángel, Mexico City.
"Rosetta is my favorite place to eat in the city. Chef Elena Reygadas creates unique italian-influenced dishes—langostino, burrata con carne, truffles—that are earthy and spectacular." —Alondra De La Parra Colima 166, Colonia Roma, 52/55-5533-7804. Photo by Adam Wiseman. This appeared in the March/April 2012 issue. Read more about Alondra de la Parra, including all of her favorite concert halls and places to stay, eat, and shop.
Ballet Folklórico de México de Amalia Hernández is Mexico’s oldest, finest, and most celebrated dance company. Dancer and choreographer Hernández founded the company in 1952 to preserve Mexico’s dance traditions, dating all the way back to pre-Columbian civilizations. Today, the troupe, which is based in Mexico City, features a cast of 75 dancers and musicians who continue to perform the colorful, historic dances of Mexico. The ensemble performs three times weekly at the Palace of Fine Arts (Palacio de Bellas Artes). You can buy tickets online from ticketmaster.mx and then pick them up at the counter on the night of the performance. Palacio de Bellas Artes is a small but beautiful art deco style building. If you go for a performance, arrive early so you can walk around and check out the famous murals, including one by Diego Rivera, in the building’s galleries.
A 17th-century palace is now a 17-room hotel. Some rooms have walls made of volcanic rock, and the rooftop terrace offers panoramic views of Mexico City’s historic quarter. From $195. 52/(01) 55-5130-6830. Photo courtesy of the hotel. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
Contramar, in the Roma neighborhood of Mexico City, is treated with some serious respect among food people. When I was reading Chowhound before the trip, it was on most people's must-eat lists. And I'll confirm it: the seafood was fantastic. I can't remember what kind of fish this was, but it was so simply prepared—just grilled, with one side topped in salsa verde and the other side with salsa roja. The tuna tostada is apparently much copied elsewhere, but it can only be this good here. Some octopus, some beer, some horribly annoying hurdy-gurdy musicians—a really great late lunch. They're not open for dinner.
"Located in a gorgeous old house in the heart of La Roma, TOCA is an intimate boutique gallery that showcases the rising talents of contemporary Latin American art. It represents international artists as well." —Alondra De La Parra Colima 174, Colonia Roma, 52/55-5525-7614. Photo courtesy of TOCA/GalerÍa (painting by Javier Pelaez). This appeared in the March/April 2012 issue. Read more about Alondra de la Parra, including all of her favorite concert halls and places to stay, eat, and shop.
As with so many cultures, Mexico’s has shifted over time. Before the country was conquered by the Spanish, Aztec culture dominated the area. After all, it is from their word, Mexica ("Me-shee-ka"), that the name "Mexico" is derived from. In 1521, the Aztecs were defeated by Hernán Cortés and for the next 300 years, the country’s national identity, as shaped by state, religion and popular culture, was defined by all that which is Spanish. After Mexico gained its independence from Spain, driven mainly by political forces, the country’s indigenous culture was incorporated into the national identity giving rise to a fusion culture known as the mestizo. Today’s Mexico is a rich, multicultural nation and for me, this is what makes Mexican culture unique. The Ballet Folklórico de México de Amalia Hernández is the country’s premier dance troupe and several of its dances, although stylized performances, celebrate Mexico's native cultures. There is also the Jaguar dance which is a male solo performance that pays tribute to the Aztec warrior culture. They are spectacular to watch! Check the company’s website for the schedule of performances and buy your tickets from ticketmaster.com.mx. In Mexico City, the performances are held in the beautiful Art Deco styled Palacio des Bellas Artes. You can just go there and pick up your ticket on the night of the performance. Both photography and video cameras are allowed!
Housed in a mansion built in 1911, Casa Lamm is a cultural center, art school, and gallery. The permanent collection includes works by such notable Mexican artists as landscape painter Abelardo López and sculptor Jorge Marín. Sign up for a same-day lecture or enroll in one of the semester-long classes, which run the gamut from pre-Hispanic art theory to salsa dancing. —Joy Hepp Avenida Álvaro Obregón 99, 52/55-5511-0899, casalamm.com.mx. Photo by Omar Bárcena. This appeared in the May/June 2011 issue.
Looking down the Avenida de los Muertos toward the Pyramid of the Sun and the Citadel from the Pyramid of the Moon. For the unknown inhabitants of Teotihuacan a climb up these massive pyramids must have made them feel "on top of the world" since these were the tallest structures of their time. Teotihuacan is easily reach by bus from Mexico City and takes just over an hour to get there.
"The architect, Eduardo Mata, was inspired by the Concertgebouw in Amsterdam and the Berliner Philharmonie. I love performing in this monumental building. It was specially designed for symphonic music, and the audience surrounds the musicians during performances." —Alondra De La Parra Read more about Alondra de la Parra, including all of her favorite concert halls and places to stay, eat, and shop. Photo courtesy of Sala Nezahualcóyotl. This appeared in the March/April 2012 issue.
My wife and I traveled through Mexico for over a month, visiting the fabulous ruins of the Toltecs, Aztecs, Maya, Olmecs, and so on, and staying in beautiful colonial towns absorbing the cultures of each region. We traveled central and southern Mexico from Aguascalientes to Chiapas along the Gulf Coast and returned north through Oaxaca, finishing up in Mexico City. One of the last places we visited was the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. Everything we experienced on our trip came together under one roof—was the perfect finishing touch to an amazing journey.
The Zocalo in Mexico City is one of the most vibrant places I've traveled to, in one of the largest cities in the world. There are so many cool things to see aside from just getting lost in the meandering side streets of markets, artisans, museums. Check out Zona Rosa, Poblano, Chapultepec neighborhoods. the Mayan exhibit in archeological museum is brilliant. Easy place to stay is hotel mayaland on Reforma/insurgentes. Easy ride from airport, makes the initial stress of new city a breeze. Hemingway wrote about it, Kerouac immersed in it... definitely a city to spend some time in at least once!!
Precariously standing on a thin strip of concrete, four feet above an angry bull, I wondered what my insurance deductible would be if I slipped. Earlier in the morning I had driven down to Lienzo Charro Regionales de la Villa or as I prefer to call it a ‘Mexican Rodeo.' The charros (Mexican Cowboys) are the real deal. Mexican Rodeo is a equal parts theater and machismo. With big boots, broad belts and horses all around, I felt as if I had stepped into a Marlboro poster. Kids walked around selling Coca-Cola in glass bottles and deep-fried doughnuts with everything on them. Men got their boots polished by shoeshine boys in the stands. And women opened delicious smelling lunch boxes they had brought from home. It was also the only place in the world where you’d feel out of place because you didn’t wear a 10-gallon hat and couldn’t lasso a horse with your eyes closed. It was dusty and the sun was harsh but I also took pleasure in the fact that I wasn’t freezing my butt off in a New York November. I managed to befriend a couple of charros and they gave me full access to the stables, where I spent the afternoon with chilled cerveza and my camera.
Sitting at a table in the middle of a huge Cantina in Plaza de Garibaldi, it finally hit me. There are two kinds of men in Mexico City: Mariachis and those who wish they were Mariachis. I’d heard stories about the Plaza earlier during the day but nothing had quite prepared me for what I saw. As we approached the square, I saw a sea of Mariachis fully decked out in their hats & ornate suits, decorated with silver embellishments. It was like a Mariachi Convention, except this was just another day in Mexico City. The Mariachis epitomize every thing that’s great about this city. They’ll break into a song at the drop of a Sombrero. They wear amazing costumes that look like they were created after a dry cleaning van broke into a jewelry store. And they can inject energy in a room like a double shot of espresso. Kitsch, gaudiness and bravado combine to create unexpected results. The warmth and friendliness of this city is palpable in every interaction. Yes it’s gritty. Yes it’s crowded. Yes it’s chaotic. But I doubt you’ll find a place that can pack more fun into a dollar.
This view is from the top of the "Moon Pyramid" in Teotihuacan looking out over a 2 kilometer stretch that's been excavated. It's a common misconception that the Aztecs built these structures, but they actually discovered and inhabited them much later.
In the morning we went to Mixquic in the southwest of Mexico city to witness and participate in the decoration of the graves there. This photo was taken later in Zocalo in the city center where the parade and festivities lasted late in the night.
The restaurant and bar, called El Balcon del Zocalo, on the roof top of the Holiday Inn located along the Zocalo, or central square, of Mexico City is worth the inflated prices in order to get a bird's eye view of Mexico's largest and most important square. I recommend coming for drinks and snapping some photographs from the exceptional vantage point this restaurant and bar provides. I would skip the food here and go find some street food that is much more authentic and easy on the wallet. In addition to the rooftop bar, there is an amazing shop sharing the same building, called Arte Mexicano para el Mundo, which sells Mexican folk art from all over Mexico. The prices for the art are more expensive than they would be locally, but the quality is excellent and the variety and regions represented make it worthwhile just for a look around. It's almost like a museum.
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