... is still a place of magic and wonder, although you must now make more of an effort to slip free of the tourist economy.
Woodcarving by Pak Pande from Mas, Bali
More than a decade ago, we visited the home studio of Pak Pande Wayan Ardana, a woodcarver who lived on a back road in Mas, outside of Ubud in Bali. He had carved this masterful battling dragon and monkey from a single hibiscus root when he was in his 20s. He told us that the huge gnarled root had sat in his studio for several years before it told him what to carve from it.