I arrived in Mumbai on November 30, 2011, 24 hours after the 26/11 attacks ended and left 164 people dead in the worst modern terrorist attack India had experienced.  The city by the sea was devastated and barren of tourists. Shopkeepers and residents were healing and still in shock, some describing their experiences with my friends and me. Bullet holes wounded the walls near Leopold's Cafe and bed sheet ladders hung from windows near the burned-out turrets of the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower. Along the causeway near the Oberoi Trident Hotel, residents lit a memorial to remember and to never forget.