Along with the kitsch there's plenty of whimsy down in the streets below the Citadel's cliffs in Old Québec. I'd been to Québec City several times while still a student, but my wife had never been. After eleven years away, I returned, introducing her to one of my favorite places. Unlikely art along the St.-Lawrence: even in North America's oldest urban neighborhood, there's always something new. Vive les bicyclettes!