We booked this pansion/guest house partly because reviews mentioned turtles in the yard. Turns out, Pansion Rose was a gem—in many ways. The proprietress dug up turtles in her garden just for my kids—saying, it’s getting warm out, it’s time for them to wake up... Another child staying at the pansion became an instant play-mate. Our hostess brought me a glass of locally-produced white wine, while I thumbed the pages of my book, Sarajevo Marlboro, and our kids frolicked in the grass.