Let me set the scene for you.

A sleepy Vietnamese town on the Thu Bon River, a place where colorful shops loom over ancient cobbled streets, lanterns illuminate the path through a grandiose covered bridge, and tiny men pilot tiny skiffs across the glassy surface of the water. At the river's edge, crates have been turned upside down and stand in as tables, with tiny plastic stools nearby. A plump, jovial woman places a steaming bowl of Cao Lau before me. Cao Lau is a regional dish regional Vietnamese dish made with hearty flat noodles, pork, and veggies. The noodles are made with water from an ancient Cham well, while the recipe is a closely guarded regional secret (if you believe what you hear on the road. I try to believe as much as I'm told).

Dining on the river in Hoi An is a quintessential Vietnamese experience. You deserve to treat yourself to this one.