We had seen many highlights on a two-week cruise along the Adriatic coast on a small ship (only 48 passengers) – Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik, and island towns. This spectacular coastline has a history from the Romans and Venetians to invasions by the Turks. Guides referenced “The Last War” in general terms and moved quickly to more positive subjects. They did point out that the fall of Yugoslavia was the trigger that exploded with religions and ethnicities, neighbors, and family members pitted against one another. One rainy day, we took a bus inland to Mostar, Bosnia. It was cloudy, wet, and dark…perfect for a glimpse into recent history. Mostar had been caught between Croats and Milosovic’s Greater Serbia. In the bombardment, a thousand-year-old stone bridge and much of the town was destroyed. The bridge, once a crossing point from Europe to Asia, has been rebuilt, but much of Mostar still has the scars.