Modica is famous for chocolate, and we stopped in the town on the way to Noto almost exclusively for that reason (okay, also for the Baroque architecture). THE place to go for chocolate in Modica is Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, known for their cioccolato di vetro, or glass chocolate, and their i’mpanatigghi. The former gets its name from its unusual, crumbly texture, as it’s made with cocoa powder, sugar and spices, no milk. So it doesn’t melt in your mouth so much as disintegrate. Very tasty. I’mpanatigghi are cookies filled with chocolate and, get this, veal. Amazingly, you can’t taste the meat at all, but it gives the filling a wonderful richness and one cookie is really enough.