We spent a day in Bosnia, it's an easy drive from Dubrovnik. The transition was dramatic: from the Latin alphabet to the Cyrillic; from lazy tourists driving Fiats to vigilant UN peacekeepers driving tanks.

This bridge was destroyed in 1993 during the war, and rebuilt in 2004. When we visited, in 2005, many buildings in town were still pockmarked with bullets or fully shelled, but this bridge was fresh—and promising.