At the beachside restaurant Robinson's--a hidden gem with no electricity or running water, tucked away a nude beach on the coast of Hvar--every bite of "Squid Nona Mikra" is worth trekking for. And trek you will, as it's only reachable by an hour and twenty minute hike from the main town (or by boat from the town center, but where's the fun in that?). As the locals told us, "Walk along the sea towards Milna, past the Franciscan Monastery, past the gas station, find the goat road then walk, walk, walk, walk." Enjoy the sunshine along the coast, and follow the painted rocks that tell you you're on the right track. When you get there, cool off with an ice cold Karlovacko beer, and a dip alongside some nudists as you wait for the congenial owner to serve you up some of his wife's grandmother's recipe--squid braised with onions 'til they melt, served with corn porridge, rosemary, olives and vegetables they grow themselves. Easily the best meal and best day of my life!