In a city known for clean lines, Stockholm’s Södermalm district (“Söder” to locals) is surprisingly non-conformist. A slum in the 18th century, the neighborhood is now home to a mix of clothing and furniture shops; Thai, Greek, and Turkish restaurants; historic falu red cottages; and one famous fictional character, Mikael Blomkvist, the journalist in Stieg Larsson’s best seller The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Linger at a cafe along the main square, Medborgarplatsen, and take in the scene.

Photo by Martin Thomas Photography/Alamy. This story originally appeared in the September/October 2011 issue.