... is still a place of magic and wonder, although you must now make more of an effort to slip free of the tourist economy.
Mouthwatering Babi Guling
The best babi guling (suckling pig) in Ubud can be found at the no frills, open air Ibu Oka, Jalan Sueta / Tegal Sari No 2. Sit on the floor in front of a low table (you may have to share) and rip into a plate of tender pork served with rice and a bit of crackling on the side. Rustic dining, 5 star meal.