by Fabrizia Lanza

People line up at seven or eight in the morning to order a big dish of soup made with tripe and intestines. You can get panelle (pancakes made from chickpeas) hot from the vendor. They also sell the most famous panino—spleen stuffed in a bun, which you eat either ‘married,’ with ricotta, or ‘not married,’ which is pure. Via Ballarò near Via Albergheria

This story appeared in the January/February 2011 issue. Photo by Raymond Patrick. See all of Fabrizia Lanza’s favorite places in Palermo.