by Sylvia Kouvali

The mosque here was built for an admiral who, they say, demanded that the architect Sinan build him ‘something like that,’ as he pointed across to the Aya Sofia. The complex also includes a newly renovated hammam where I take steam breaks to relax. Tophane Square

As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.