Istria, Croatia is "truffle country". Knowing this, I was determined to dine at the world's best truffle restaurant while there. I found it at Zigante where each dish, from the pasta to the ice cream, was embellished with delicate, exquisite black and even "king" white truffles. Now fully content, I drove along the Motovun forest-lined roads--it was a gorgeous day in early fall. Then, the true highlight: Through the trees I caught sight of two men with dogs. I hit the brakes and grabbed my camera. Furtively peering through the foliage, I witnessed real truffle hunters and their truffle-sniffing dogs foraging for Istria's treasure!