The Himalayas were built for sunrise, and there may be no better place to take in the mountains and the sun than from the shores of Phewa Lake.

We left behind the cozy confines of our hotel room for the impenetrable dark of 4am, and made our way down to the water's edge. We hired a boatman to take us out onto the lake, and for a time wondered if we would even see the mountains, for the fog over the water was so thick. But suddenly the sun appeared on the edge of the world and the fog was burned away, and the mountains were revealed before us. This is one of the most dramatic scenes I have witnessed in my entire life, and worth losing a few moments of sleep for.

Prices for a boat ride are highly negotiable - I think we spent about $5 to get out on the water, but the opening salvo was somewhere north of $25. Just keep your wits and your cool and negotiate a fair price for you and your boatman.